Take a look, and decide whether this car just accidentally parked over an old spill, or if it is losing precious fluids right before your eyes. Although this is not always a deal breaker, any kind of drip, ooze, leak or seep can be indicative of much larger problems. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/4/43/4999818-2. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-2. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/4/43/4999818-2. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-2. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Dealers and owners will tell you that a little oil seepage is normal and this is partly true - some makes and models are notorious for leaking oil, but that doesn’t mean that the car is in trouble. It’s just up to you whether you think it’s worth it to occasionally have to add oil. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/d/dd/4999818-4. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-4. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/d/dd/4999818-4. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-4. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Reddish fluid is probably transmission fluid. Black fluid is generally just old oil. Caramel is the color of fresh oil, or old power steering or brake fluid. Green or orange fluid is probably coolant. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/3/36/4999818-6. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-6. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/3/36/4999818-6. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-6. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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\nLicense: <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer noopener" class="external text" href="https://creativecommons.
org/licenses/by/3.
0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} Be mindful of clear puddles, which might be just water, meaning it rained, the engine was washed or the A/C has been running recently.
Once you have some on your finger tip you should be able to tell if it is oil or water-based.
If it seems like both, look out, and pay more attention in the following steps.
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Keep an eye out for wet spots, dark spots, and clumps of filthy oily sludge, paying close attention to the oil pan, and any seams or gaskets you can spot. It is not uncommon for there to be a little grime leftover from past issues that have since been fixed. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/4/4c/4999818-9. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-9. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/4/4c/4999818-9. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-9. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Don’t hesitate to poke at things (maybe use a paper towel) to see how drippy, wet, slimy, or caked on they might be.
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Some folks will happily add oil to make up for a drippy oil pan, and can go for years without any serious repercussions beyond the expense and inconvenience of it. Some leaks are minor, and can take months to add up to significant losses, while some get progressively worse and can lead to real problems. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/d/df/4999818-12. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-12. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/d/df/4999818-12. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-12. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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A great number of potential engine problems can be ruled-out just by there being no visible loss of fluids.
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A pristine, shiny new engine should smell of rubber and plastic with a hint of gas or oil. In the best of all possible conditions, you will smell fumes that naturally come off belts, hoses, and the various plastic parts. This is called outgassing, and is completely normal. The smell of an engine compartment should not be too different from the smell of new tires. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/6/67/4999818-15. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-15. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/6/67/4999818-15. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-15. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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This is normal, and so long as it isn’t overwhelming, it’s not something you need to be afraid of.
You may also smell gas.
A whiff of it is perfectly normal, and in older cars with carburetors, even a good solid waft of gas-imbued fumes is not an uncommon thing.
However, if you are smelling a lot, that might mean a leak in the fuel system and could be a cause for concern.
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That smell might mean the car has just been sitting for a while.
You should be able to ask your seller if there is fresh gas in the tank, and how long the car has been sitting for.
This is not usually a huge deal, but stagnant gas can cause problems, up to and including rust in the gas tank.
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This could just be from spills, but you’ll still need to check for leaks in the cooling system.
On a cold motor, these can be spotted by a white-to greenish film; a sign that coolant has evaporated.
An acrid, tart smell may also be present, which will indicate a need to take a closer look at the battery at some point.
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A dirt covered engine, on the other hand, will show you where every drop of oil or gas has been, will show you which parts have been tinkered with or replaced (clean spots), and also indicates that the car has been driven, which means it has at least recently been working. Cobwebs tell you that it’s been sitting a while, which may mean nothing, or may mean extra steps later on. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/2/2e/4999818-20. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-20. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/2/2e/4999818-20. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-20. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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It an indicate a leak, but at least you can locate the source of the leak by following the path of the sludge.
If it’s just a heap of sludge and blackened goo, it may be time for new gaskets, or even a rebuild.
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A fuel leak will often actually create a clean spot on an otherwise dirty engine, but usually fuel leaks are fairly subtle, and you’ll need to use your nose to know if they actually exist.
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If you have an automatic transmission, there is another dipstick in there, so you should check this too, using the same remove/clean/replace/remove method. Again, you just want to be sure that there is some transmission fluid in there. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/a/a5/4999818-24. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-24. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/a/a5/4999818-24. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-24. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Usually this pump just has a lid with a small dipstick.
Check to make sure that there is at least some fluid in there.
Also check your brake fluids, while you are at it.
Usually your brake fluid reservoir is translucent, and you can see without opening anything where the level is.
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Take note of anything with low levels, and remember if you end up buying this vehicle to top everything off to its appropriate levels.
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If the belts are a little shoddy, just keep in mind that these will need to be replaced. Most dealers will have made an assessment of such problems, but you aren’t necessarily working with a dealer, and these things sometimes get overlooked. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/c/c6/4999818-28. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-28. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/c/c6/4999818-28. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-28. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Some cars won’t start without them, but some have second belts that charge things or let your A/C and power steering work, so do be sure that every pulley you see has either a belt attached or a good reason not to have one.
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Check the areas where the hoses attach to things, and look for the telltale film of hot leaks.
These leaky spots sometimes only develop when engines are hot, so there won’t be any dripping, and a good dose of engine cleaner can make them vanish, so you do need to really look to see if there is even a trace of residue, not unlike the hard water scaling you sometimes have to clean from your teakettle.
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For now, take a look at the battery itself to be sure it isn’t cracked or leaking. Look for exposed cable, which is not terrible as long as it has not turned green, or become caked in white residue. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/3/34/4999818-32. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-32. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/3/34/4999818-32. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-32. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Usually this is just a sign of an aging battery that has been sitting a while, and can be cleaned up with a toothbrush and some soda water, and a toothbrush.
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This doesn’t mean it’s a good battery or that the terminals aren’t corroded in a way you can’t see, but it does mean that no such potential problems have been hidden by an auto detailer’s hard work.
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If the air filter needs replacing, it is likely that more (if not all) of the filters (such as the oil, gas, cabin air, transmission filters) are due to be replaced as well. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/4/4e/4999818-36. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-36. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/4/4e/4999818-36. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-36. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Look for loose wires and hoses. Look for little things that you might not understand, but look off to you, like uncovered holes or potential missing parts. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/7/73/4999818-40. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-40. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/7/73/4999818-40. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-40. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Discuss any changes or modifications your seller has made.
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A sludgy, leaky, oil-burning car might have blackened the liner. If the underside of your hood is just darkened, it’s likely not a problem, but if any part of it is scorched, burned, or has been torn away or removed, that’s a sign of a past engine fire. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/6/62/4999818-44. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-44. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/6/62/4999818-44. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-44. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} If you find evidence of fire, ask when and how it happened, and you may find that the engine has been rebuilt, in which case you just want to be concerned about any current leaks of fuel or oil.
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0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} A past engine fire should at the very least make you wary, but even such a sordid history does not by itself mean the car is simply no good.
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If it is black on the inside, this means that the car has been running rich (too much gas in the air/fuel mix), which is bad but not terrible, and usually just means poor fuel economy. White tips mean the car is running lean (too much air in the air/fuel mix), which makes for increased wear and tear, and a hot running engine. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/3/3b/4999818-48. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-48. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/3/3b/4999818-48. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-48. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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\nLicense: <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer noopener" class="external text" href="https://creativecommons.
org/licenses/by/3.
0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} In older cars this is a problem of timing and valve adjustment.
In newer cars it indicates something wrong in the electronics; usually an O2 sensor, or perhaps an airflow sensor, sending inaccurate information to the computer, which then makes errors in regulating the mix.
Either way, problems with the exhaust pipe will require a tune up.
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It starts and runs, first try. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/8/84/4999818-51. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-51. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/8/84/4999818-51. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-51. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Dash lights come on, you turn the key and then you hear a click, followed by nothing? Still probably just a dead battery, or even just a bad connection. Check it and charge it. Pull it out if you have to, or use jumper cables. The best practice is to remove the battery, connect an AC powered charger, and give it some time. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/1/1b/4999818-55. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-55. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/1/1b/4999818-55. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-55. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} The engine turns over, but does not start? Give the gas pedal a good stomp, wait a few seconds, and try again.
Pump the gas pedal as you turn it over.
If this doesn’t work, continue to try a couple more times.
If the car has been sitting, it may just take some time for good fuel to be pumped from the tank to the engine.
With any luck it will catch at some point and you’ll likely not have to do that again.
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Still nothing? You will probably have to pull the spark plugs and clean them. If the car has a carburetor, you can also try dumping a few teaspoons of gas straight into the venturi (the part where the air goes in). {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/0/0e/4999818-58. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-58. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/0/0e/4999818-58. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-58. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} This whole process sometimes has to be repeated, just to get the engine going after a car has been parked for a substantial amount of time.
On that note, if you have a car sitting around and want to sell it, start it up once in a while so this doesn’t happen.
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“TicTicTicTicTic” noise, increasing in speed as you rev the engine. Sticky lifters, flat cams, loose valves, and even a loose belt can do this. If it goes away after you add oil, or after the car gets good and warm, that’s a lifter. Although it’s nothing to panic about, it’s something you’ll want to address at some point in the future. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/5/5b/4999818-61. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-61. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/5/5b/4999818-61. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-61. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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\nLicense: <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer noopener" class="external text" href="https://creativecommons.
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0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} A “NokNokNokNok” noise that increases in frequency when the engine is revved is called an engine knock.
This can be bad news and might be a sign that you should walk away from this particular car (unless it’s a diesel, in which case this is exactly how it’s supposed to sound).
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0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} Squealing, shrieking, squawking? This is usually the belt, or belts, and sometimes the pulleys that they turn on.
Plan to change the belt.
If the noise continues after changing the belt, you’ll need to figure out which pulley.
Alternators and air conditioner pumps can make these noises too, and can also just make scraping noises.
Be mindful of such sounds, but unless they really start to bother you, don’t worry too much.
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0/">Creative Commons</a>\n</p></div>"} A louder knock which does not match RPMs but may be present while accelerating or at low idle might indicate an engine or transmission mount that needs to be replaced.
Not an emergency, but you’ll want to get that fixed too, at some point.
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Your parts guy or your mechanic can help you out from there. You’ve done pretty much everything you need to do to be sure your engine is at least sound enough to get you to the store. As you drive take note of any issues such as a distinct lack of power, any odd shuddering, or any other sort of odd behavior. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/f/fa/4999818-66. jpg/v4-460px-4999818-66. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/f/fa/4999818-66. jpg/aid4999818-v4-728px-4999818-66. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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Your local auto parts counterman has a device that can check your car’s computer codes, and most will do it for free if they have the time.
If someone tries to charge you for a checkup, drive on down to the next place.
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If you made it this far, though, you have a working engine.
Congratulations.
Your fluid levels filled, your battery charged, good gas in the tank, and you’re driving.
See how it feels - in the end that’s what’s important.
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