For example: if your Internet’s top speed is 100 Mbps, you’ll need a router that can handle at least 100 Mbps.
Some ISPs have the option of renting and/or outright buying router/modem combination that is compatible with the service they offer. Renting will be more costly in the long run, but a good choice for people who can’t afford to replace or update a several hundred-dollar router every few years.
If you already have a modem from a different service provider, be sure to check with your current ISP to ensure that it will work with their services. You can buy modem and router combination units for a lower price, though these units tend to be more expensive to fix or replace. [1] X Research source
Collectively, you can usually expect to spend around $200 total on a good-quality modem and router. [2] X Research source Be aware that your budget should be a bit flexible, as a router just outside of your budget might be worth the price in reliability and performance.
Walls and floors impede a wireless signal, meaning you’ll need a router with a greater signal strength for a multi-floor or multi-room area than you would for a smaller space (e. g. , an apartment or a classroom). [3] X Trustworthy Source Consumer Reports Nonprofit organization dedicated to consumer advocacy and product testing Go to source If you’re working with multiple floors of space or a wide area, you’ll likely need to purchase more than one router and place them on the same network.
A small, average-power router can typically take care of a group of standard computers performing low-bandwidth operations, while you’ll need a stronger router to handle high-bandwidth operations and other devices (e. g. , printers). [4] X Research source Also consider how you’ll be using the Internet, since casual browsing and light work will take significantly less processing than gaming or constant file transfers (e. g. , uploading and downloading).
Advertised speed - A rounded-up combination of all router bands’ speeds. This is the number you’ll see advertised on your router’s product description. Since most devices can’t connect to more than one band at once, this number is a technical fallacy. Ceiling speed - This value determines the highest speed at which your devices can use the Internet. For example, a router that supports a speed of 800 Mbps won’t help a device that only reaches 400 Mbps achieve a higher ceiling speed. Router range - Your router’s maximum range dictates how far from it you can be while still receiving a serviceable signal. For larger areas, you’ll need to either pick up a router with a strong signal, or look into purchasing a mesh net system, which uses multiple routers spaced throughout the area. [6] X Research source
For the best possible performance and compatibility, buy a router with “AC” in front of its model number. Designations A, B, and G are considered obsolete.
Avoid WEP and WPA, since both are outdated as of 2006. If you can’t find a WPA2 certification on the router’s packaging or features page, contact the manufacturer or customer service department and ask about the router’s supported encryption.
This is also a good time to call your local ISP and ask about their recommended routers. When reading other users’ reviews, pay close attention to the poor ones. These tend to be the most telling of any gaping flaws in the router, especially if other users have the same criticisms. If your specific model of router has overwhelmingly positive reviews and is clearly being purchased by a large user base, it’s likely a good choice.
