The more often you do this basic surface cleaning — e. g. , every time you take the shoes off — the easier it and the rest of the cleaning process will be. Save your old t-shirts for shoe cleaning and polishing. They’ll come in handy often. Remove the laces from the shoes before continuing; they’ll just get in the way.
For stains caused by road salt, try applying a two-to-one mix of water and white vinegar with a clean cloth. Lightly dampen the leather; don’t saturate it with the solution. If you have caked-on, clumpy layers of old polish to contend with, try adding a bit of nail polish remover (acetone) to cotton balls and wiping gently. This should remove the old polish.
Follow the product instructions for application, but remember that a little goes a long way no matter what you’re using.
After you’ve finished applying a coat of polish, buff the shoes using a clean cloth and the same circular motion. Buffing evens out the wax, helps work it into the leather, and removes excess. If you want to add one or more additional layers of polish, let the shoes dry for a short while between rounds, and always buff after polishing.
If possible, let the shoes dry overnight, then give them one final buff with a dry cloth.
If you must use water to clean a stubborn stain (or need to remove a water stain), wet the entire shoe lightly and then blot it dry thoroughly. When the shoe is dry, use the suede brush to restore the texture. Apply a spray-on suede protector after cleaning and on a regular schedule, as per the product directions.
To give untreated leather a deeper clean, use saddle soap. Moisten a clean cloth, then rub a small amount of the soap onto it. Gently rub it onto the shoes, then wipe away the lather. Let the shoes dry thoroughly. Protect untreated leather with mink oil. Apply a small amount using a clean cloth, then buff it with another clean cloth.
Wipe the shoes with a dry cloth. Mix a small amount of oil-based soap with water, dampen a clean cloth with the mixture, and rub it gently over the entire shoe. Scrub a bit harder (in a circular motion) for more stubborn stains or scuffs. Allow the shoes to dry overnight or longer before wearing them. Re-dyeing the shoes may also help with stains or fading.